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Lying down and vomiting between courses: This is how Ancient Romans would feast
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Imagine, if you will, the most glorious festive feast, with an oversize turkey, stuffing two ways, holiday ham, the requisite fixings and at least half a dozen pies and cakes. That may all sound grand — that is, until you consider the extravagant displays of the ancient Roman banquet.
Members of the Roman upper classes regularly indulged in lavish, hours-long feasts that served to broadcast their wealth and status in ways that eclipse our notions of a resplendent meal. “Eating was the supreme act of civilization and celebration of life,” said Alberto Jori, professor of ancient philosophy at the University of Ferrara in Italy.
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Ancient Romans enjoyed sweet and salty concoctions. Lagane, a rustic short pasta usually served with chickpeas, was also used to make a honey cake with fresh ricotta cheese. The Romans used garum, a pungent, salty fermented fish sauce for umami flavor in all dishes, even as a dessert topping. (For context, garum has a similar flavor profile and composition to current-day Asian fish sauces such as Vietnam’s nuoc mam and Thailand’s nam pla.) The prized condiment was made by leaving fish meat, blood and guts to ferment inside containers under the Mediterranean sun.
Game meat such as venison, wild boar, rabbit and pheasant along with seafood like raw oysters, shellfish and lobster were just some of the pricey foods that made regular appearances at the Roman banquet.
What’s more, hosts played a game of one-upmanship by serving over-the-top, exotic dishes like parrot tongue stew and stuffed dormouse. “Dormouse was a delicacy that farmers fattened up for months inside pots and then sold at markets,” Jori said. “While huge quantities of parrots were killed to have enough tongues to make fricassee.”
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Giorgio Franchetti, a food historian and scholar of ancient Roman history, recovered lost recipes from these repasts, which he shares in “Dining With the Ancient Romans,” written with “archaeo-cook” Cristina Conte. Together, the duo organize dining experiences at archaeological sites in Italy that give guests a taste of what eating like a Roman noble was all about. These cultural tours also delve into the eyebrow-raising rituals that accompanied these meals.
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A Massachusetts college student who was deported while trying to visit family for Thanksgiving said an immigration officer told her it wouldn’t matter if she spoke to a lawyer, she was going to be removed from the country anyway.
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Any Lucia Lopez Belloza, a 19-year-old freshman at Babson College, was flown to Honduras on Nov. 22, two days after she was detained at Boston’s airport and one day after a judge ordered that she remain in the country.
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In a court document filed Saturday, she described two sleepless nights — first, staying awake with excitement in anticipation of seeing her family, and then later, being crammed with 17 other women in a cell “which was so small that we did not even have enough space to sleep on the floor.”
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Lopez Belloza, who is now staying with her grandparents, came to the US in 2014 at age 8 and was ordered deported several years later. Though the government has argued that she missed multiple opportunities to appeal, Lopez Belloza said her previous attorney told her there was no removal order.
“If I had been aware of my 2017 deportation order, I would not have traveled with my valid passport,” she wrote. “I would have dedicated significant time and effort during the past eight years to hiring an attorney who could help me resolve my immigration situation.”
Related article
In this undated photo provided by her attorney, Todd Pomerleau, Any Lucia Lopez Belloza celebrates her high school graduation in Texas.
A college freshman deported while flying home for Thanksgiving is fighting to return. Here’s what we know about her case
The government also argues that the judge who issued the Nov. 21 order preventing her removal lacked jurisdiction because by then, Lopez Belloza was already in Texas on her way out of the country. But lawyers for the student argue that Immigration and Customs Enforcement made it all but impossible to locate her.
According to Lopez Belloza, when she refused to sign a form consenting to deportation and asked to call her parents or a lawyer, a “tall, muscular, intimidating” ICE officer “said it didn’t matter if I spoke to a lawyer because I was going to be deported anyway.” She later was allowed to call her family from Massachusetts, but that was before she knew she would be flown to Texas and then Honduras.
In a separate filing, lawyers for Lopez Belloza said the government acted “in bad faith and with furtiveness” by failing to answer phone calls to the Boston-area ICE office or update its detainee locator database and by moving her without allowing her to notify her parents or counsel. They asked a judge to schedule a hearing and allow Lopez Belloza to return to the US to testify.
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